G-train hijinks at the Hideaway.

Our trip to the Queen’s Hideaway had been a long time coming.  A first trip during brunch hours proved unsuccessful, due to the fact that brunch is no longer served there (though the proprietors have hinted at resuming brunch at some point).  Second, third, and fourth attempts were stymied by, respectively, closure, closure for renovations, and illness on my part.  Finally, all the stars aligned last night, after the anticipation had built to a probably-unreasonable level – would the Queen’s Hideaway prove worthy of the hype?

Reservations are probably a good idea, but my girlfriend and I managed to waltz in unannounced and score a table, disturbing the owner’s dogs, who had been slumbering underneath it.  We were surprised when a wine list came along with the menu, but BYOB is apparently still available, though the corkage fee isn’t insignificant ($5).  Arriving on our table roughly concurrently were peanuts, boiled with what looked like dried red chiles.  My girlfriend exclaimed her excitement and explained that boiled peanuts are a southern roadside staple.  I’m pretty sure I like the Fenway ballpark peanuts better, but I suppose that’s what the Waffle-House-IHOP line will do for a relationship.

The menu, for the unfamiliar, is written on a daily basis, based on availably fresh ingredients, greenmarket produce, organic, etc.  I mention this not because it’s any guarantee of goodness, but rather to warn that the dish I liked, or that you heard recommended in some other article, probably won’t be available.  It’s probably good if you’re open to new flavor and texture combinations, at least.

Our appetizer, which was a fritter of black eyed peas in a spongy, almost fishy squash batter ($4), quickly tested our open-mindedness.  The included “Hideaway hot sauce” was a bit of a mystery, but the included lemons are absolutely to be squeezed over the batter balls – they make the dish.

For her main, my girlfriend ordered an oyster casserole ($16), which promised to include artichoke hearts, chestnuts, and leeks.  She found it to be good, particularly the oyster parts, but thought that the rest seemed a bit mush-like.  I agree, and I thought it was a rather artichoke-y mush – not being a big fan of said artichoke hearts.  (Old habits die hard.)  Included were two biscuits, on the harder side, which reminded both of us of shortbread in their buttery wonderfulness.  We wanted a bag of them to take home.

I was more impressed with my pulled pork dish ($17) – it wouldn’t surprise me to hear that the proprietor had smoked it herself, and it was served in two amazing crepe-like cornmeal cakes, making these the best dry enchiladas I’ve had, possibly ever.  The bed of plantains and yams were sweet enough without being cooked in maple syrup rum, I think, but you may disagree.

We unfortunately didn’t save room for dessert (I blame having Alidoro for lunch again – those sandwiches are huge!), but the beignets and chocolate-blood orange parfait (called, mysteriously, “fool”) seemed intriguing.

I may well be back to sample the desserts.  Despite being slightly overpriced (I give credit for the home-made factor, like Shopsin’s), the food has the capability of being unique and amazing, though, with only four entrees, you’ve got to make sure everyone’s willing to eat anything.  As for getting there – it still sucks.  Cursed G-train, why do you taunt the hipsters and the Polish people so?


Filed under NYC

4 responses to “G-train hijinks at the Hideaway.

  1. Anonymous

    Another reason to check it out…I just read that there’s this new Greenpoint Bar called Lulu on Franklin between Greenpoint and Kent with SKEE BALL.

  2. Hey, nice writeup–I’ve been wanting to check this place out for ages, but again, the dreaded G-train factor has kept me away. But now I’m inspired!

  3. Anonymous

    I like your reviews, but could you put in the address of the restaurant too?

  4. I usually try to – sometimes I forget. There’s always Google…

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